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Dearman’s Soda Fountain
Mar 8th, 2011 by Joemoney

3 votes, average: 7.00 out of 103 votes, average: 7.00 out of 103 votes, average: 7.00 out of 103 votes, average: 7.00 out of 103 votes, average: 7.00 out of 103 votes, average: 7.00 out of 103 votes, average: 7.00 out of 103 votes, average: 7.00 out of 103 votes, average: 7.00 out of 103 votes, average: 7.00 out of 10
(3 votes, average: 7.00 out of 10)
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Dearman’s Soda Fountain
7633 Jefferson Highway
Baton Rouge, LA 70809-1102 (map)

Doctor, Doctor! -

The name Dearman’s has popped up a few times in my search for the best burger in Baton Rouge. Dearman’s Soda Fountain has resided in the upscale and swanky Bocage Village since the 1960′s in various forms, originally as a pharmacy that had a lunch counter and now as a retro inspired burger, shakes, and soda shop. I use the term “retro inspired” instead of “retro themed” because there is not an overwhelming effort to make this look like a sock hop 1950′s diner. There are some distinct design cues, like the checkerboard tile, the L-shaped counter wrapping around the grill with chrome stools, and jukebox that give Dearman’s a comfortable, 50′s feel without being cheesy. Unfortunately, a Five Guys has opened up across the boulevard at the more upscale and swankier Towne Center.  So, Burger Tyme made it’s way to this truly historic burger joint in hopes of finding something better to recommend than the expensively average new kid on the block.

We walked in and were instantly greeted by our cheery, young waitress. She sat us down and and handed us our menus. It looked very promising offering the usual burgers and fries but what really jumped out to me was the “Specialty Drinks”. For a steep $4 you could have house made sodas,  milkshakes, malts, or something I have never heard of, phosphates. A little research revealed that the use of  phosphates was how soft drinks used to be made including Coca Cola. This gave Dearman’s a little more of my respect as there seemed to be some subtle art at work here.

Take Two and Call Me in the Morning -

After a brief consultation with the waitress, I placed my order for a cheeseburger, dressed (Louisiana term for everything on it) with grilled onions, a large order of fries to share, and a hot fudge milkshake. That’s right, not chocolate but HOT FUDGE. Once the order was placed, I set about watching the grill cooks go to work while our waitress began making the milkshakes. I liked that all of the work being done was in plain sight of those who are going to eat it. I felt like I was part of the team.

After a short wait, our fries came out. They were fresh cut, single fried so not as crispy as double fried, but cooked well and still very tasty. The large order was more than enough to share with three or four people. Out next came what has to be the most amazing looking milkshake I have ever seen. It was vanilla, it was chocolate, it was light, it was dark, it had this mysterious, palantir-ish swirl. Not only that, it was delicious! The waitress “warned” me that I might get little bits of fudge with each sip and that some people might not like that… Are they crazy? After these first two showings, my anticipation for the third and most important had risen dramatically.

And out it came. It was not the largest burger, nor the most unique looking but it had all of the basic details perfectly implemented. Buttered and toasted bun, hand formed patty with a crusty sear,melted American cheese, grilled onions, and just the right amount of lettuce hiding underneath for me to say it was healthy. This burger was of medium heft, requiring both hands initially. I took the first bite and instantly thought, “This is it”. Everything was working together and was almost perfectly balanced. The cheese covered patty was juicy with out being sloppy or greasy, the toasted bun and the lettuce added a nice crunch to each bite, and the grilled onions gave it a light, smokey sweetness. This was a very good burger.

The Wrap It Up -

Dearman’s Soda Fountain. Amen! After a few disappointing Burger Tymes in my beloved home town, I’ve finally found a place worth recommending. This is a very good, borderline, great burger! What pushes it over the top is the unexpected originality and the quality. Everything that places like Cheeburger Cheeburger and Five Guys fail at, Dearman’s triumphs. It is local, it is original, and above all, it is good! So do your hometown a favor, and find more places like this. They are out there.

Oh, PS. For all of the Burger Tymers who also love light crime, Dearman’s is coming soon to a downtown Baton Rouge courthouse near you Article.

 

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